Labrum SS27

HANDS OF OSMOSIS

Writer: Emily-Grace Morgan
Images By: Stefan Knauer

Labrum closes its final chapter in the trilogy with HANDS OF OSMOSIS. The first two chapters allowed us to explore a journey through music and textiles; the final chapter celebrates craft, culture, generations and time. We see this throughout the collection in the way different materials, influences and generations come together. There is a feeling of looking back while also moving forward, with traditional craftsmanship sitting alongside contemporary silhouettes, sportswear and collaborations. This was demonstrated from the moment we stepped into Labrum’s show.

When we first arrived at The Great Hall in Westminster, the street was lined with an excited buzz of guests and photographers. We wandered through the corridors and into the hall, where we were greeted by Labrum’s atelier. Mustapha Parambil and Millie Potton sat at the entrance of the show, sewing and embroidering fabric together. Rather than presenting the finished product, Labrum gave us a glimpse into the hands and processes behind it. It was a beautiful detail before the show had even started, highlighting the importance of craftsmanship that can so often be overlooked.

As we entered the hall, the centrepiece of the catwalk space was a chandelier brought down to the ground, with speakers positioned either side. Seated at the show, the lights went up and the music started, with the soundscape and score by Sampha. The first models made their way down the catwalk.

The collection included an array of co-ord suits, with destination prints, embroidery and textures, while fringe also made an appearance. The colour palette was elegant, with cream, brown and green forming the base, while pops of cobalt blue, reds and purples flowed and connected throughout the garments.

One of my favourite aspects of the collection was found within the styling details. Styled by Sasha Harris, the looks included bags, ties, headphones and one of my personal favourite accessories: brooches. We were also seeing the work of milliner Lucy Barlow, alongside metalwork by Florence West, adding further layers to the story of HANDS OF OSMOSIS.

Another layer of Labrum’s show included collaborations with Adidas and Dr. Martens. What is so special about this collection is how sportswear was incorporated into the designs without feeling separate from the rest of the collection. The full Adidas x Labrum sportswear looks and the integration of jackets over suiting, became another part of the story rather than an additional element. To me, it speaks to the way we dress now. As we move between our work, travel, meeting up with family and friends, along with everyday life, the boundaries between formalwear, sportswear and what we consider “dressed”, have become much less defined.

At the same time, there was something nostalgic about these pieces. The combination of suiting, outerwear and footwear, such as trainers, boots and loafers, felt reminiscent of a time when travelling attire had its own sense of occasion. What you wore on a journey mattered just as much as what you packed in your suitcase. Labrum seemed to take that idea and reinterpret it for how we live now. For me, it feels as though Labrum is creating clothing that feels considered and elegant, yet practical and lived in.

The Dr. Martens loafers and boots worked particularly well within this balance. Their familiarity and functionality brought a sense of weight to the looks, contrasting with the elegance of the tailoring and softer elements of the collection. Rather than overpowering the garments, they grounded them. This was perhaps what I found most interesting about the collaboration. The pieces didn’t feel like they had been added to the collection. Personally, they felt as though they belonged within Labrum’s wider conversation around passing of ideas between generations.

Overall, Labrum once again demonstrates the importance of craftsmanship and paying honour to the cultures and generations that came before us. As someone who is somewhat sceptical of menswear and not particularly drawn to sportswear, Labrum has proven to me that both can sit together and still look elegant and timeless, while continuing to tell us a story.