ANCIELA SS27
Roots
Writer: Lily Egleton
As described by herself as an "intimate universe", ANCIELA's ‘Roots” SS27 collection promises a story of womanhood. Beginning with white, sculptural pieces, progressing into greens, blues, and beiges; climaxing in four black pieces moving seamlessly around a log in a way that could only be compared to the three witches of Macbeth; moving into sharp blues with cuts and jagged edges and ending in a purple dress with puffed sleeves that reminded me, once again, that purple is in, ANCIELA's collection moved me. The show began with a model blowing into a shell, the words echoing throughout Regent's Quarter: "I sing the body of every woman... old, new...". In an industry occupied with youth, it was refreshing to witness the diverse range of models, young and older. Rather than limiting itself to a story of the typical youthful model, ANCIELA's collection discussed the relationship of mother and daughter. In a sense this felt like a double entendre, inspiring me to think about the relationship we have with our mothers, while also playing with themes of Mother Earth. The disintegrated wooden log which the models circled around told a story of environmental challenges and danger, which Creative Director Jennifer Droguett told me was specifically inspired by the recent wildfires in Barcelona. This caused her to feel inclined to speak out about how fashion can play a role in addressing environmental challenges.
The pieces were both unique in cut and design, yet wearable. Donated by artist Allegra Hicks, the collection maintained its sustainability in vintage silk, rescued wool and deadstock cottons with certified Tencel and recycled cotton. Additionally, the collection was innovative in introducing next-generation materials, such as AlgaFila - a fibre made from seaweed extract, air and nanotechnology, and Savigne by Planet of the Graphes - a cruelty-free, plant-based leather alternative constructed from pressed grape skins, stalks and seeds left over from winemaking. To equally allude to the story of climate change and environmental challenges, the collection;s abstract fern motifs appeared sporadically across the patterns, were inspired by the layered darkness of the deep forest and the jungle, and were notably created using black bio-based pigment developed by Octarine - a synthetic biology platform which focusses on developing low-impact solutions.
Overall, the collection explored the fascinating intersection between family, womanhood and the environment. To witness a collection utilise such innovative materials while playfully using tools like music, texture and colour to tell its story was a pleasure. I can't wait to see what ANCIELA does in the future.
