Mark Fast SS27
Primal Glamour
Writer: Ruby May Britton
Mark Fast certainly lived up to his reputation as the ‘King of fashion knitwear’ with his SS27 collection, Primal Glamour.
The Luxury knitwear designer, known for his sculpted silhouettes, didn’t shy away from putting the body at the heart of his Spring/Summer 27 runway. Primal Glamour boasts that ‘second-skin silhouettes define the season’, which became abundantly clear as the first model took to the stage in intricately woven black crochet, exposing the bare skin beneath.
This was an abrupt introduction to the collection's unapologetic sensuality. As the designs became increasingly more complex, skin remained integral to each look, peeking through the carefully constructed crochet patterns. This was intentional. The body was not a mannequin used for displaying each item of clothing, but rather part of each design.
As the body was left in its most vulnerable, bare state, the juxtaposition of Primal Glamour became most evident, as the garments themselves were anything but simple. Some models were adorned almost head to toe in the signature crochet pattern, with few of the pieces even having beads threaded onto each row. From the viewpoint of the front row, this intricacy was undeniable.
The collection was largely grounded by a palette of neutrals, alongside deep blacks and flashes of teal. In this sense, the elaborateness of the knitwear for which Fast is best known, was able to take centre stage. Instead of relying on excessive accessories, this collection felt stripped back. With Fast depending on texture and silhouette to bring each piece to life. Whilst there was plenty to admire in terms of the designer’s technicality, I found myself wanting more in terms of the collection's emphasis on glamour, which at times felt somewhat one-dimensional.
Nevertheless, Fast has long made knitwear the focal point of his designs and this runway was no different. In fact, his SS27 collection seems to ask just how far the material can be pushed. There is an almost architectural element within his craftsmanship that continues to impress each season. I would go so far as to say that this collection felt daring. Where London Fashion Week typically demands eccentricity and extravaganza, Fast remains steadfast with his captivating knitwear and classic catwalk staging. Comfortably situated in Ambika P3 of the University of Westminster basement gallery, this SS27 collection explores the space between raw sensuality and polished artistry.
The intricate knitwear of Primal Glamour exists somewhere ‘between instinct and control’. The female body is presented unapologetically in its most raw state, whilst the clothing surrounding it is carefully and expertly constructed. Ultimately, Mark Fast has crafted knitwear that celebrates the body, and frames it at the crux of each design.
