Justin Cassin
In a unit space near St Katherine Docks, Australian label Justin Cassin staged his AW26 runway like a late-night initiation. Faintly reminiscent of mass queuing outside a club: bass thudding through concrete, an R&B filled playlist leaking from within the garishly lit space. Snippets of conversation floated past- aesthetic appointments, elaborate meal plans, one adamant refusal to cook with ginger- whilst an influencer-heavy crowd filtered inside.
Music reverberated through ribcages as models flooded down the runway to a rotation of club classics, with Love Island alumni Harry Cooksley and Dejon Noel-Williams making their appearances in Cassin’s finest. Cassin, a designer with foundations in fusing urbanism with modern tailoring, delivered a collection that thrived in the nocturnal setting. Menswear sharpened by the city, softened by club-kid charisma.
Tapered trousers anchored multiple looks, their clean lines counterbalancing metallic hooded outerwear that sliced through the otherwise moody palette. Leather jackets- some more conventionally cut, others long-line and cargo-pocketed- added weight and attitude. Brown loafers grounded double crossbody bags slung across white hooded utility jackets in a charming combination of aesthetics. Patchwork clutches swung casually at hips, courtesy of Melbourne’s Orange Cube.
Outerwear proved the collection’s strongest register. Long, triple-breasted pillar silhouettes commanded, vented with wide sleeves that swayed dramatically under the lights. An oversized, drop-shoulder checkered peacoat offered contemporary reworkings, while short black trench coats and extended leather dusters leaned into the cinematic- cough, The Matrix. One neat army-green carpenter jacket stood out, cinched with a silver chain clasp across the chest.
Playing confidently with proportions, a cropped khaki trench revealed a bare midriff above low-waist pleated trousers, its tail blowing behind. Asymmetrically closed jackets in warm greys were deconstructed cleanly, styled with a slouched bordeaux clutch for contrast. Elsewhere, sheer collarless shirts and translucent bomber jackets hinted at the layering of the season.
AW26’s colour palette oscillated between monochrome restraint and unexpected sweetness, pastel suit trousers in candyfloss and lavender clashed pleasantly against raven black shirts and onyx jackets. Heavily pleated white trousers secured toffee-toned shirting with ease, while latte-hued turtleneck tunics showcased Cassin’s minimalist precision- arguably his most assured territory.
Deep in the shadowed corner of the city, Justin Cassin supplied an Autumn/ Winter collection grounded in precision and presence- menswear that moves with conviction through whatever landscape it inhabits.