In their Series 09 runway, “In Loving Memory of British Culture”, Prototypes make their London debut at a pertinent time. Only a week prior, the nation’s capital was the stage of large, anti-immigration and so-called “Unite the Kingdom” rallies, as well as the counter-protestors for whom Britishness is an inclusive identity, inseparable from and ultimately enriched by multiculturalism. Creative directors Laura Beham and Callum Pidgeon centre the fraught symbol of the British flag —  from bordering the tops of socks to becoming a cape-like dress — and revisit traditional patterns of check plaid and houndstooth in a collection which continues their exploration of football, working class and youth subcultures. 

The show’s setting in the stone and stained glass grandeur of St John’s Church seems to echo the religious intensity that nationalist ideals can take on. Here, models have their heads completely covered in skin-tight mesh fabric— in a suffocating black; another spray painted with the British flag. On other models, oversized bucket hats cover their heads as the space for the face is rendered featureless fabric, with only small cutouts for eyes. Like the cracks that run up this church’s high walls, there is also a tension in this collection between the riot headgear of the police, and the informal riot headgear of people, balaclavas. In the show’s penultimate look a model wears a garment with a hijab-reminiscent head covering that then extends over her face seamlessly into a flowing dress with a hand-held extended trail at the front, whilst from her the back the garment is a form-fitting dress reaching the tops of her thighs. In head-to-toe stark flag-red, including gloves, tights and heels, this look is striking and unforgettable. 

Contrasting this coveredness, elsewhere in the catwalk we see revealing, even cheeky looks, as models wear long socks with kickers that expose arses. In a look that prioritises bold statement over functionality, an England football shirt is strapped to a model’s front, as her exposed back and spine become a part of this statement. The concealment-revelation duality within the show seems to speak to the varied multiplicities and contradictions which exist in the current political landscape.

The show ends with six coffin bearers that lead the final walk, rendering it a funeral procession. Whilst some in this country cling to the white nationalist ideals of our colonial history, in Prototypes’ hands the face of Britishness is ever-changing, reincarnating, and ultimately champions inclusivity. As the words on their flag dress read, “everyone’s welcome”. 

Words By: Carolina Fernandez
Images Courtesy: Agency Eleven