“Where the hell are we?”  I sit - slumped on the dirty sidewalk of 5th Avenue; ignoring the everlasting groans of my family; squabbling over the directions of a Manhattan map; with ketchup dripping onto my bare leg from an abnormally greasy hot dog. I stare at the rays of sunlight bouncing off the glass of skyscrapers, questioning its uncanny witchery that promises greatness. What is it about New York? And, in particular, what makes it so pathetically lovable? 

On February 16th, 2024, Paul Costelloe commenced London Fashion Week with his Autumn/Winter collection named “Once Upon A Time” - Where Limerick Meets Downtown New York. A mist of smoke filtered through the air, transforming the onlookers’ gaze from the grand hall to the rustic streets of downtown New York. A blast from the stereos; vibrant energy; and models emerged from a wall of illustrations - the show had begun.

The collection seamlessly delivered a narrative of nostalgia. Winter whites; charcoal grays; Arran knits; Irish tweeds; and shapes of leather all referenced Costelloe’s devotion to classical fashion whilst honouring his new vision of merging practicality in his collections. The statement of oversized, chunky jewelry pieces from Pebble London paired with voluminous shapes of traditional knitwear and tailored leather, along with puffy sleeves of the dresses, were reminiscent of 1980’s staple accessories. Costelloe’s array of heavy coats designed to shelter from the bitter city winds that blew from the East to the West, were yet softened by their pairing of floral patterns and voluptuous sleeves - capturing this contrast with the whims of summer we desperately search for in the harsh, winter months. 

Alongside the show, an accompaniment of American classic songs were played - one that stood out, in particular, being Joni Mitchell’s ‘Big Yellow Taxi’. Despite being viewed as an environmentalist anthem that critiques environmental destruction and excessive urban development, it also communicates the idea of taking something for granted - not appreciating what you have until you are deprived of it, perfectly encapsulating Costelloe’s bittersweet reminisces towards the city. 

Costelloe not only produced another remarkable successful showcase but an exploration of wistful art in the form of fashion that proves his legendary prowess. The whimsical yet innovative performance within the show not only exhibited his capabilities as a designer, but struck a communicable longing within its onlookers for a city that is unwaveringly loved.