David Koma’s Fall Winter 24 collection explored the relationship between clothing, light and movement. Through the study of dance, the designer took us on a futuristic journey at Ambika P3 this London Fashion Week. Cameras hung from the ceiling, held together by large groups of wires, flashing wildly in the show’s final moments. Inspiration was taken from expressionist dance pioneer Pina Bausch and the contemporary artist Candela Capitan, as well as the Thin Air light exhibition at The Beams in 2023.

Dance was central to this avant-garde exploration of the “interplays between light and movement”, says the show notes. Dress associated with performance as well as rehearsal manifested in large, feathered hems that flowed to the floor and peplum miniskirts, sometimes paired with oversized trousers, reminiscent of the tutu. Satin sling backs and knee-high leather boots also exhibited the same feathered trim, bursting with movement at every step.

Crystals were set in metal ringlets, reflecting and shining light from the futurist, floor length blazer and mesh tops which they adorned. The refraction of light continued to be emphasised by the sheer overlays and sharp-edged neoprene tailoring as we begin to understand Koma’s world as one of both maximalism and minimalism.

Sculptural silhouettes like the ballet bustier morphed into eveningwear and draped tops nodded to the justaucorps of training uniform. Again, the wardrobe of the dancer is revealed and elevated. The black and white looks were bold, whilst vivid floor-length macramé silhouettes electrified with colour. Glamourous and modern, Koma’s collection felt transcendent as it staged a place of convergence for light, movement and dance. A true feast for the eyes, this tech-centric approach to fashion felt innovative and otherworldly.